Top Ten Exercises Without Weights

Should you hate to visit a fitness center, you're not alone. The good thing is - you will get leads to enhanced comfort of your home with a few simple home exercises.

Body weight training Could be effective. It's really a replacement for weights, if required. Training making use of your own bodyweight like a supply of resistance is really a well established method to get results fast.

Listed here are 10 best body weight training exercises that provide you excellent workout routines and achievement - with no gym.

1. Supine Pull-Ups (works major muscles at the spine, shoulders, and biceps) Use two chairs along with a pole - huge broom handle is effective. WARNING: make certain the chairs are stable which the broom handle is powerful enough to consider unwanted weight. You may be Seriously hurt when the pole would break or even the chairs to slide. Lie lying on your back underneath a minimal bar. Grab the bar having a wide overhand grip. Pull-up. Lower and repeat for six-8 reps.

2. Supine Biceps Pull-Ups (biceps, some back) Make use of the same chairs-and-pole arrangement from #1. Sit underneath a minimal bar. Grab the bar having a reverse grip (palms facing you), hands about shoulder-width apart. Keeping the body upright, pull-up until your face just clears the bar. Concentrate on the tension inside your biceps, attempting to relax the relaxation of the body. 6-8 reps.

3. Push-Ups (chest, triceps, shoulders) The important thing when focusing on the chest area with Push-Ups may be the direction by which your elbows travel. Just like bench presses, the elbows must escape from Your Body to focus on your chest, and become stored Near To The BODY to focus on the triceps. Place each hands just outdoors shoulders, slightly behind the road of the shoulders. Hands pointing straight ahead, torso rigid like a board. 6-15 reps.

4. Tent Push-Ups (mainly upper chest) Assume the positioning in #3, but walk your ft forward so that your is bent in the waist, as well as your sides are at any height in mid-air. Bending in the elbows, lower yourself until onto your nose touches the ground. Push-up. Repeat. 6-8 reps.

5. Push-Ups, Triceps Position (you suspected it - triceps, plus some chest) Start with fingers facing forward set up from #3, hands slightly Under shoulder width apart. Decrease your body towards the floor keeping arms in upon your body. Push-up. 6-8 reps.

6. Triceps Dips With Chairs Together with your hands behind your back, support your self on your palms close to a chair. Both hands ought to be touching your elbows should position outward. Sinking within this position relieves lots of force on the elbow and shoulder joints. Lower yourself, keeping the back near to the chair. Bend your elbows back and slightly towards the sides. Keep yourself tilted slightly forward through the motion. Press yourself up to your arms are straight. 6-15 reps.

7. One-Legged Squats (front upper thighs, butt, hamstrings) Stand verticle with respect to some wall, about arm's length from it. Extend your arm to along side it and put your palm from the wall just under shoulder-height. Position the feet farthest in the wall at 45 levels. Bend another leg back. Keeping the body upright, lower yourself before the non-weight-bearing knee is near to (although not touching) the floor. Support yourself by leaning from the wall. Press yourself look out onto beginning position. Repeat 6-8 reps.

8. One-Legged Hamstring Bridges Lie lying on your back with one leg extended, heel on the floor. Contain the other advantage started. Pushing using your heel, flex your hamstrings to raise your body. Lower and repeat for 8-10 reps. Repeat along with other leg. You are able to control the resistance and also the degree that the butt lead by altering the length you set your heel in accordance with the sofa.

9. Runs Begin the lunge if you take a sizable advance, keeping the mind up and torso erect. Decrease your sides and permit your trailing knee to decrease to some extent right before it touches the ground - never allow the knee touch the ground. Revisit the beginning, push served by your forward leg after which take a step back once the knee is totally straight. Repeat along with other leg, 10-15 reps both legs.

10. Stair Running Stair running is not usually considered a resistance exercise, and actually, it can make hefty demands in your heart. However, additionally, it does an amazing job of conditioning the low body. In case your knees are who is fit, try doing 10-20 one-story sprints, ideally two stairs at any given time. As you become more powerful, build up the amount gradually, keep one hands around the stair rail to trap yourself should you lose balance. Have a larger challenge by putting on a backpack full of nice heavy books.

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Leather Repair - How You Can Repair Torn Leather Chair

You will find so various sorts of automotive leather chair repair, with different situations and programs. You will find holes, scratches, gouges, cuts, scrapes, worn or cracked, and merely lower right grubby searching leather seats. I believe I acquired all of them covered, well in the following paragraphs we are likely to discuss how you can repair a little hole inside a leather chair lean back, for individuals individuals that do not understand what a lean back is well it is the upper area of the chair.

Now when I only say small this could obtain a tear as much as 1 1/2" to twoInch, most likely might go just a little bigger, but allows not push it, if it must visit the upholstery look for an place then that might be better a crappy searching leather repair on something which most likely wouldn't hold anyways. Much more doubt, place it.

Preparing a chair is paramount to success in almost any leather repair, along with a lasting leather dye job. So, prep the entire lean back, even though your in internet marketing just clean the entire chair, why don't you, but it's not necessary to, together with your preparing solution getting rid of all grease, grime, and muck. You'll need a clean surface along with a well prepared area to utilize. After I prep, I personally use an answer of rubbing alcohol, acetone, ammonia, and a tiny bit of Teaspoon substitute, with water inside a bottle of spray. Spray the chair using the solution and scrub having a scotch brite pad to scuff the leather chair for leather dye adhesion and take away any muck that's around the chair, then wipe clean having a clean lint free towel. When your clean, use a grip base primer towards the chair, It's my job to generally will dye the whole lean when I perform a repair or even the entire chair, but may you no longer need, to not require to prime the entire chair, but do clean the chair good this decreases on the quantity of leather dye used and also the ending result is a premium leather repair.

How to the opening. Allows say it's inside a V shape, just for instance. Like where you've gott'n from the chair with something inside your back pocket, ouch! I understand the sensation, in college I'd a 1986 Mustang SVO, unusual and nice vehicle (guy I miss that vehicle) and that i got to visit class having a pen within my back pocket and ripped in regards to a 2" V shape within the chair, I about puked immediately, not to mention at that time I did not know anything about leather repair. However I actually do and here you go.

Sand the region round the tear having a 240 grit sandpaper, this provides a bit more for that low warmth compound to grip to. Take a bit of underpatch material and slide the under patch underneath the tear with a set of forceps, permitting in regards to a 1/2" inside completely around. It's my job to cut my patches inside a circular shape, it causes it to be just a little simpler to slip under. You should use various kinds of under patches, I love the type that's covered on one for reds having a warmth triggered glue.

Now take a small amount of leather glue and spread a skinny coat around the patch around the bottom from the leather repair area. When the leather will lay lower easily and complement then great, but may it simply will not. Within this situation we'll use combo from the glue as well as your low cure leather repair compound and smooth a little amount within the patch then lay the leather lower. Spread a tiny bit of low warmth compound within the area and smooth it together with your pallet knife, recalling to keeping the area no more than possible, the more compact the greater. Now warmth the region together with your warmth gun, contain the warmth gun out from the leather repair and gradually move it in to the repair area, this gives you somewhat with additional control from the warmth, you won't want to burn and shrink the leather. The concept would be to cure the compound and obtain it to stick before you decide to prepare the leather, it is a skill factor, practicing to achieve perfection. When the compound is healed immediately press the grain pad inside your palm to the repair, don't press to hard, but firm.

At this time around utilizing a wet paper towel apply a tiny bit of grip base towards the repair area and dye together with your color matched up water leather dye. Dry thin jackets of dye, not wet. Then re-apply and lessen another thin coat of compound. Warmth again and grain then dye, obtain the idea, your work is building the repair up. Thin jackets of compound applied and healed then reapplied, tend to be better the other thick coat. After you have it developed and searching nice, blend the repair in to the relaxation from the chair as needed, by using thin jackets of leather dye to finish it. Drying out between jackets of dye having a hair dryer, and something great tip is rubbing the leather dye together with your hands to pressure the dye in to the creases from the leather helps a lot, you shouldn't be afraid to obtain your hands dirty. I only say that but I am allergic to rubber mitts, it bites, and so i get home every single day with dye throughout my hands, it is a discomfort, however i love the job and also the job looks better with some love applied on individuals leather chair repairs. Following the dye is healed, use a top coat of satin or dull leather obvious top coat combined with a little of slip additive added for that soft feel. Dry the chair completely, then apply your leather conditioner to complete and provide the chair the juice it requires along with a great feel and search for you.

Now you will find a lot of other versions for this fix, sometimes I will need to make use of an air dry leather repair compound over the top low warmth compound to lessen the leather repair. Sanding it having a 400 grit sandpaper until it appears right. You may also turn your air lower in your fresh paint gun until little tiny droplets are being released allow it a textured look, drying out between jackets. Texture films, may be used, but when you're doing so right the gun effect is effective. After I perform a leather repair I will not quit until it appears perfect. Persistence is really a virtue, right. Do not get in a rush, this can only frustrate you more and you really got issues.

Leather repair is really a craft and profession. The dyes and compounds I personally use are high quality and are created to last. Providing you with an enduring leather chair repair, and luxury knowing you've got a leather repair which will last and appear great for many years.

I really hope it was some assistance for you, within the coming several weeks you will see more articles like that one but on several situations on leather repair, loved I spoken about within the first. You will find a wide variety of ways in which a leather chair could be broken, we spend considerable time within our cars and well "sh$$ happens", right. Check to see my next article on automotive leather chair repairs. For those who have anything you want to request you can shoot me some comments on Leather Repair - How You Can Repair Torn Leather Chair.

The Comfortmaker Condensers Again

These, again are my neighbor's Comfortmaker condensers. They're 2 Tons each, have Copeland-Scrolls, and were manufactured the 29th week of 2002.

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Building a Recording Studio

Studio Considerations

The magic of the recording studio has often mystified even the most seasoned professionals. With all the knobs, switches and buttons on various gear and large format consoles, no wonder confusion sets in to most non-techies. Many people, especially artists, composers, producers, and engineers, will end up putting together their own studio for writing and pre-production, with some eventually deciding to take the plunge and create a full-fledged recording complex that is capable of recording major albums. This article will try to shed some light on the considerations to take into account when making a studio, be it a small home studio or a professional recording studio.

Is size important? Some may say it is so but this is not always the case. The dimensions of the studio are very important. A room too large may become over-reverberant or full of unwanted echoes. A room too small may sound tight and unnatural. It is important that the room size and room sound is relevant to the type of music you are recording. You don't want to go into a very small tight room to record BIG rock drums. Although, big room sounds can be achieved by adding external reverb effects to simulate rooms at a later time when necessary.

It is best to find the room that suits the sound you are trying to achieve from the beginning of the recording process. The smaller the room, the smaller and tighter the sound will be; this is not necessarily a bad thing. Small tight rooms can be good for vocals, guitars and percussion if you are going for a tight clean sound. Larger rooms have more air for the sound to travel in, so it will be in fact a bigger more open sound. The sound has a longer travel time for the sound wave to move, therefore the reflection from the walls will take longer to bounce back creating a bigger more spacious sound. The decision of size and sound has to be made early on before the recording starts. One advantage that a larger room will have is the ability to be scaled down by closing up the room using modular baffles or gobos (go betweens). Gobos are structures that are partitions, that help to block sound by placing them in between the musicians, instruments, and microphones. Placing the gobos around the microphone at a close distance will help a large room with too much ambiance sound smaller. This will eliminate the reflections coming off of the walls that are further away.

Small rooms can produce big heavy tight sounds with the absence of the decay from the reverb that is caused from big rooms. Sometimes a large room can sound like it's washed out, or far away. With a good engineer any room can sound amazing with a little adjusting. A poor sounding room can be manipulated to sound good, although it requires much more work and time. Deciding on the proper room size for your needs is critical to the sounds that get re-produced. This will highly dictate the type of sound the microphones will pick up.

Clapping your hands in a room can give a good representation of what a room will sound like. The reflection coming off the walls will be picked up by a simple hand clap. The true test is to try out some instruments or vocals and position them in various sections of the room until reaching the optimum sound quality. If one side of the room sounds bad try a different spot or move around into a corner until the sound is improved.

Experimenting with different sections of the room also keeps the sound fresh when recording many instruments. If the acoustic guitars are recorded in the center of the room, when the time comes to record the electric guitars you may try recording them in a corner of the room for a different room sound. This gives clarity on the final mix creating separation and providing more distinction on various sounds.

If you are starting your own studio, remember that the bigger the studio the higher amount the bills will be. The benefit is that larger studios can charge more for their studio rates.

Getting the Necessities

If you happen to reach that elite 2% and become that million dollar, hit selling, famous producer or artist (or if you just win the lotto), then you might eventually think about buying serious studio gear and setting up your own producer paradise.

Acquiring the proper equipment and labor is key to a great studio and successful recordings. Studio gear is expensive and the knowledge of those who use the gear does not come cheap. Hiring the right people can save money and time in the long run. Studio designers also are specialty breeds that can make or break your studio. Your buddy Joe the carpenter may be able to help build it for less, yet if the studio is not properly isolated for sound it is a great waste of time, energy and finances.

The studio engineer is also the focal point of the sound that is created. Having an experienced engineer involved in the process will make your sound have a character of its own. He is the extra set of ears that gives another dimension to your productions. He is also a critical consulting partner when building or choosing to rent a studio. Let the experts help you with advice, it will create less of a headache in the long run. The experienced engineer can fill you in on all the equipment needed for recording the music that is relevant to your world. He can also give some guidelines on how the studio should be setup before having to consult a designer. There is no room for guessing or assumption on these issues.

Check List: Part 1

When purchasing studio gear it is wise to research only what is absolutely essential for your style of music. If you're not recording live drums in your studio, there is no need to buy a plethora of microphones for them. By being patient and shopping around for the best prices, a mass amount of money can be saved in the end. When you save to 0 bucks on each piece of gear it really adds up in the end, and there is a ton of gear needed to put a proper studio together.

Below is a basic studio checklist that will be discussed in further detail in later articles. These are the essentials of modern day recordings and the tools that are most commonly used in the best studios around the world.

The Studio Gear Checklist:

Recording / Mixing Console

The engineer or producer operates the console that controls all of the levels for recording, playback and mixing.

This is the big board that has all the buttons, switches, knobs, faders which control the levels and signal routing for each instrument. This could be referred to as a board, console or mixer. The most common consoles in major studios are SSL (Solid State Logic) or Neve. The console is the most important piece of gear in the studio. It controls the overall operations of signal flow and sound manipulation. The console allows for each instrument to be on its own channel on the board. Each channel may then have effects inserted into its signal path to enhance the sound. A signal may also be routed to external gear for further manipulation. Anything that can be imagined, can be done. There are no rules for experimenting with sound. A signal can be sent to reverbs, delays, compressors, guitar amps, speakers in hallways for re-recording

Each channel strip on a decent console will contain: Faders, Preamps, Panning, Equalization, Filters, a Routing Matrix, AUX Sends and Returns, Dynamics, Muting, & Solo.

Other Features Of The Console: Inserts, Outputs, Monitoring, Automation, Fader Grouping, Bussing, Splitting...

Patchbay

Allows the studio to combine interconnectivity with all the equipment by using patch cables. The patchbay can be configured for each studio's specific equipment requirements. All of the outboard gear, console and recording devices inputs and outputs are hard wired to the patchbay. The Patchbays can be be analog or digital. The most common is the bantam TT cable configurations.

Check List Part 2:

Microphones Microphones pickup the initial sound source. The mic is the first source in the recording process receiving and converting the sound wave into electrical energy to be amplified, transmitted and recorded.

Preamps Amplifies the original signal coming from the mic or instrument. Gives initial control of the recording levels. Preamps are located on the console or as external outboard gear.

DI Boxes The Direct box is used mainly for instruments such as keys and bass to be compatible with mic inputs. The DI box transforms line levels of instruments to mic level for console and preamp inputs.

Compressors Helps to further control levels and dynamics coming from the preamp or console. Usually comes in rack mounted outboard gear or software plugins for DAWs. Compressors keep levels from peaking into distortion levels and help to bring lower levels louder.

FX Processors For special effects like adding space, dimension, pitch and time delays on signals and recorded tracks. Usually comes in rack mounted outboard gear or software plugins for DAWs. Multi-FX processors may have reverb, delay, flangers, EQ, compression and more all in one unit.

FX Pedals Small floor foot pedals originally designed for guitar FX processing. These pedals are created for distortion and special effects, which add space, dimension, pitch and time on guitars mainly, but are an inexpensive alternative used as outboard gear for other instruments.

DAW The Digital Audio Workstation is like an entire studio inside of a computer. Protools, Logic and Nuendo are just a few DAWs that provide a digital multi-track recorder, a virtual console, a wide variety of effects, editing, and sequencing(musical programming) possibilities. The DAW uses software, hardware and computers in combination to operate.

Check List: Part 3

Control Surface The control surface acts as a console that controls a DAW or external machine. The control surface usually has faders, knobs and buttons that are controlled by the computer connected to a DAW. This makes operating the DAW similar to analog operations by being able to put your hands on faders instead of clicking a mouse. Some control surfaces have all the same features as a console. The most common control surfaces are made by Digidesign.

Clocking Digital recorders use different clocking formats to operate properly. Digital units sample the sound to be replicated. Clocking refers to the amount of time in between samples taken for reproduction. If the digital clocking is off it will sound jittery or add noise to the sound in the analog to digital conversion. A quality clock will improve the sound. Some common digital clock sources can be found in products made by Prism, Rosendahl, DCS, and Aardsync to name a few. Some clocks have sync generators built in to lock up with other machines.

Sync Generator Generates tones to allow communication between machines so that several recording devices can be synchronized together and operate at the same speed. Clocking works with synchronization (sync) when analog and digital equipment is combined. Sync uses SMPTE, MTC (midi time code), Midi Clock, MMC (midi machine control) to allow recording on several DAWs and tape machines to be linked up together.

CD Recorder Records and plays back compact discs. Gives the ability to record stereo mixes and playback these mixes on other CD players. CD standard for consumer playback is a sample rate of 16 bit and a sampling rate of 44.1kHz. Sony, Tascam, Alesis, and Yamaha all make good studio CD recorders.

Tape Machines Recording machines that use analog or digital tape for recording and playback of music. Some purists in sound recording prefer the sound of analog tape. There are many digital tape machines used for recording both music and video.

Cabling Literally miles of various cabling could be needed for a single studio. Common cables in sound reproduction are XLR balanced mic cables and Unbalanced 1/4 inch instrument cables.

Monitors / Amps Speakers in the studio are referred to as Monitors. Powerful clean amps are needed to run monitors. Many monitors are self powered, which means that they have built in amplifiers. Monitors usually consist of high frequency tweeters, low frequency woofers and cabinets that contain the speakers and components.

Headphones / Distribution By using a set of earphones this allows communication between the control room and the studio, also allows pre-recorded tracks to be heard during the overdubbing process. Headphones are also referred to as cans.

Instruments / Keyboards / Drums / Guitars These are more of the tools of the craft. You may have all the best studio gear in the world, but if the instruments sound bad you are starting in the wrong place. Anything could be considered an instrument if it makes noise that could possibly be recorded on a record.

Amplifiers This is often referred to as an amp. Amps increase the amplitude or volume of electrical signals from sound waves. These are used in powering speakers. Guitar and Bass amps can be used for many other applications such as running a vocal or snare drum through them.

Microphone Stands A wide variety of sizes and styles are needed for a proper studio. The mic stand helps to get the microphone placed properly for the best sound quality possible.

Studio Furniture There are many types of racks and furniture designed to hold consoles and outboard gear. The interior decoration of the studio completely sets the vibe of the working environment.

Electricity

Nothing will work without electricity unless you're jamming at the local drum circles down on the beach. Electrical installation studio power is often overlooked. Studios will setup a "clean feed" that is a separate breaker from the rest of the general power that is being used for air conditioning, lighting and the basic necessities of the rest of the building. Have you ever plugged something in and heard that horrific buzzing sound coming from the speakers or guitar amp? This is usually due to bad electrical wiring, which causes ground noise. This is the first thing to listen for when going in to a studio session. A simple solution to the problem would be to use a simple ground lifter on the gear or lift the ground from a direct box which can also solve the problems. We will go into details later.

Isolated electrical circuits for each individual room are a must in a recording studio. The proper amount of amperage is also a must. Not enough amperage will surely cause your breakers to blow. Consult with an Electrician who is familiar with studio setups to insure that wiring and voltage is regulated and conforming with local codes.

Unregulated Power Supplies (UPS) should also be in place just in case there is a power failure. This will insure that valuable equipment will not blow up or cause a fire. If there is a case of a power outage the UPS will provide enough time to backup important computer files and safely turn off your equipment. Some studios will have complete generator systems in place to keep the studio running for the remainder of the session.

Improper lighting can also cause buzzing ground issues, especially fluorescent bulbs. Avoid using these in any studio. Dimmers can also cause many problems. The average household dimmers will surely put a damper into a clean sound. Make sure that professional grade dimmers are installed to avoid ground noise. Always listen carefully to signals being recorded before committing to a final take. There are a countless number of accounts that the engineer discovers electrical noise on takes during the mix process.

If you are serious about your studio, may I suggest balance power or a separated panel with neutral power conditioning. The evil problems of ground issues are a direct reflection of sources returning or looking for a different ground. Voltage potential between neutral and ground will certainly change your way of looking at things... for example, .5 volts between neutral and ground is the maximum allowance by UL code that electronics will operate optimally without potential induction issues. I would suggest having a meter installed to rate this. Logging this information and having a good rapport with the local electric company would not hurt at all.

Air Conditioning/HVAC

This is another very important area that is often not considered. Studio gear gets very hot. The lack of adequate cooling could result in equipment failure or damage. Blowing up equipment is no fun and it gets very expensive. Some recording studios have a separate Machine Room for computers, tape machines and power amps that is highly air-conditioned to keep everything cool. This also cuts down on the noise from the fans on such units, which can distract concentration from listening in detail in the control room. Having too much air conditioning could also result in moisture or condensation build-up that may also damage the gear. Water in general is bad for electronic gear.

The return air system is used to pull heat out of needed areas and also provides an air intake for the AC units. These are placed in key areas where there is a build-up of heat from the gear, for example near the console or in the machine room.

Separate Rooms: Control Room

Most studios have several isolated areas for recording, mixing, and production. Soundproofing is the main agenda when creating multiple rooms in a studio. To achieve this, the main objective is to make the rooms airtight. If air cannot leak in or out of a room, there will be less chance of sound leaking in or out as well.

Most pro studios have double doors that create a sound lock to help prevent noise leakage. They also have very thick double walls with interior air gaps to also help trap unwanted sound. The floors in the studio should also be floated which means they are lifted from the ground to help further prevent extra vibrations and leakage.

The first focus would be the Control Room where the mixing console and outboard gear are contained. This is where all of the recording and mixing is controlled, hence control room. The acoustics in this room should be designed for hearing the exact sound that is being recorded or mixed. The sound of the room should be as natural as possible for accurate representation of the original sound translated to the speakers in the room.

The first rule for an appropriate acoustically treated room is that there should be no parallel walls .If you were to clap your hands in a room with hard parallel walls you would here the sound bouncing back and forth, this is known as a flutter echo. This is neither good for recording or mixing. The trapping of unwanted bass is important for a room to sound great as well. Twenty five percent of the room should be assigned for bass traps for an adequate mixing room.

Separate Rooms: Live Rooms

The next focus of equal importance would be the Live Room where the music is recorded. This is where the musicians and vocalists perform on the microphones. Live rooms should have more versatility to be able to adapt to different recording situations. Wood floors for example are great for reflection of sound, which creates a brighter tone. If a warmer tone is wanted, one could simply place a rug on the floor. Many live rooms also have a great deal of glass to see between rooms for communication. This is also very reflective. Many studios use curtains to control the amount of reflections coming off glass or hard walls. Non-parallel walls are again needed to eliminate any flutter echoes.

Some studios also contain a vocal booth within the live room. This would be a smaller room designed for vocals. They may also be used for guitar amps and other instruments. There are no rules for what this can be used for; its main purpose is for additional isolation during the recording process. Glass doors or windows are used for visibility of the artists and those working in the control room.

Many elaborate studios may have multiple control rooms and production suites. Lounges and proper bathroom facilities are important in keeping the creativity flowing. A dining area and kitchen are also a consideration if budgets permit. Many hours are spent in the studio when working on projects. It is important to have all the comforts of home to keep everyone happy.

A few proper offices are necessary for the client to be able to have private internet access and to handle business without any distractions. All studios are designed differently. Whatever can be imagined can be created. There are no rules, only guidelines.

Acoustics

Sound is a wave, much like the ripples on a still body of water when a rock is dropped into it. The larger the wave, the lower the tone. Lower tones, known as bass frequencies, travel in wide long waves while higher tones known as treble frequencies travel in a tighter, shorter wave. Frequencies heard by the human ear range from 20Hz to 20K. Just as an indication, a piano's range, probably the widest range of any instrument, is from 39Hz on the low note and 3Khz on the high note.

Sound is measured in decibels also represented as dB. An average concert is about 95-100 dB while a heavy rock concert or hip hop concert could reach levels of 130dB. This is above the threshold of pain; so don't forget to wear your earplugs which are designed to protect your hearing when in extreme sound levels. Interestingly enough, whales can actually produce levels of up to 180dB. It should be remembered that taking care of your ears is the most important thing you can do to prevent damage and have a sustained career. So don't hang out with any whales and put some protection in your ears when exposed to loud volumes.

Absorption is the act of a sound wave being soaked up by a particular material. This is measured by co-efficient ratings. The higher the sound absorption co-efficient rating, the more sound that is being eliminated from troubled spots in your room. Different section of the room may require different co-efficient ratings. Remember that studios start off as an empty shell. Hard surfaces and walls need treatment to provide for a great sounding room. For example, 20 gauge theater curtains are commonly used in studios. They consist of a thick velvet material, which is excellent for absorbing high-end frequencies. The thinner materials soak up higher frequencies.

The thicker materials soak up lower frequencies. This is why thick bass traps are very large and contain ports or holes to trap low-end frequencies. The larger the port, the lower the frequency absorption.

There are endless amounts of products and designs that are used in the industry. Wall panels are also commonly used to absorb sound. These are made from a fiberglass product wrapped in a cloth material. Various sizes and thickness are used for problem frequencies. Again the thin materials eliminate high end and thicker materials absorb low end.

Reflection is the opposite of absorption. Think of the sound as a wave hitting a mirror and bouncing back. This can be used as an advantage for a brighter tone. If a room has too much absorption causing the room to sound too dead, hard surfaces such as wood panels can be placed in strategic locations to add a more live sound to the room.

Some studios have reversible hanging panels that can be flipped between reflective and absorptive to change the room sound at will. For vocals the room may need a more dead sounding absorptive room. Drums may require a more live sounding room. John Bonham, from Led Zeppelin had an amazingly huge live reflective drum sound. This became the goal for the big Rock drum sound.

Prince is underestimated as a drummer. He has a great tight drum sound on his first record where he played all of the instruments as well as the drums. The drums have just the opposite effect using absorption in a small tight room creating a very in your face heavy Pop drum sound.

These are not rules, only guidelines. Using your ears is always the key to getting the best sound.

Designing a studio is quite an undertaking to do professionally. Each room is completely separated and isolated from one another. The most common method is to actually build a room inside of a room. The inner walls do not touch the outer walls, which creates an air gap that traps sound. Each wall can be many feet thick and multiple layers of thick glass and doors divide the rooms.

The floors in each room are floated from the ground with spacers that also create an air space to lower vibrations and help to trap unwanted sound leakage. All floors have different characteristics in the way sound waves bounce off from their surfaces. While wood floors have a warm tone, concrete and tile have a brighter tone. This also holds true for walls.

A solid plan is needed to run cabling between rooms so that each room can be interconnected with each other for microphone signal lines and headphone communication systems. Custom made cable troughs or PVC tubing is used to send groups of microphone cables from a panel to the control room. From the control room the Headphone lines would be run through the walls for communication between all of the rooms.

Materials and Tools

Drywall is needed for walls. The more layers of drywall added will increase the thickness of the studio walls. By using varying thicknesses of drywall stacked and shifted, alternating at the seams will help minimize sound transmission between rooms. Many drywall screws and a good electric drill will definitely come in handy if you are building a studio.

Fabric is used for making wall panels and ceiling clouds that control the absorption in the studio. There are specific fabrics that are designed for different frequency absorption. Each thickness and texture has varying co-efficient ratings at multiple frequency bands.

AC Duct Board and other fiberglass products are wrapped in fabric with spray glue to create absorbing panels called Wall Boxes and Bass Traps. Thermal Fiber or Fiberglass Insulation is inserted in between two sets of walls and ceiling to create an additional thickness providing an alternate texture, containing fiberglass, which is superb for capturing sound.

Sand is also an excellent alternative choice for filling walls to prevent sound wave transmission. Wood provides the skeleton for frames that hold the panels and boxes. Larger Bass Traps with large ports could be made from wood or fiberglass. RPG panels are a series of wooden slats mathematically designed to absorb and refract, or soak up and scatter sound inside a room. Wood can also be used to create custom racks to hold the outboard gear, console and patchbay. Custom studios can be designed for any situation and style.

Doors, Walls and Windows

Doors and walls are the single most important item where recording studio sound bleed is concerned. A small 1/4inch air gap at the bottom threshold of a door will release 30% of the sound. Creating airtight rooms are the first step in sealing all the gaps for optimum sound proofing. The transitions between where the rooms are connected have more possibilities for sound leakage. All corners, gaps and frames for door and window cutaways must be sealed with a silicon or caulking material. Keep in mind that if air can escape through any passage then sound will surely go through as well.

Construct Your Own Dream House!

So you're thinking about building your own house, are you? Well, you've come to the right place! It's a lot of fun (hard work and eventually fun!) to build your own home and it will save you thousands of dollars(we saved over a Hundred Grand by doing it ourselves - that's pretty significant cash!). If you happen to live in a Large City, like Los Angeles, or anywhere that Real Estate Values are 'close-to-insane', you could potentially save millions of dollars. Interested, you say?? Read on, My Friend, Read on...!

Here's a little list of things you'll need to know:

How to Get Money: You'll need lots of money! Don't stop reading! There are ways of getting financial support in order to build a house . It certainly helps if you have a swack of cash in the bank. I'd say at least ,000. - 0,000. to have as a back up - there are a surprising number of things that seem to come out of nowhere that require a quick injection of cash. The amount you will need to 'get in the ground' is, of course, dependent on the style and size of your home.

Also, if you already own a home, you'll be familiar with the territory and may have a fair bit of equity, which you can use to leverage other cash. Contact your Bank to get an Appraisal of your current home and see how much you can qualify for a Line of Credit.

We'll look at Mortgages, Builder's Loans, Personal Loans and Line of Credit options. Often, it'll be a big 'ol combination of all of the money you can get your hands on in order to pull this off! Remember, this is not the same as buying a house already built, hiring a builder to build it, or buying a 'previously enjoyed' house. You'll be completely responsible for every aspect of the building process.

To get the money to Build Your House, the Banks send out Appraisers to determine how much of your house has been completed before they will release the Draw Money -- remember the Appraiser Scene in The Sopranos?? Well, that's one of our favorite scenes -- Dwight laughed so hard he nearly fell out of his seat! If you're not a Sopranos fan, the Appraiser gets into 'some trouble' with the Mob, if you know what I mean! ha,ha,ha!

I'm sure there are some good Appraisers out there, who actually know that when the Roof is done, the Subfloor is already in place... d'uh! But even if you have the weeniest appraiser known to mankind, you still have to be really nice and just be prepared with your own cash to continue on with the job. We had to carry the whole project right past the Lock-Up Stage, when the banks usually release the First Draw after the Subfloor is done.

Thank Goodness we had sold our other house first, so that Equity Cash was in the Bank, because that would have been a terrible situation otherwise. So now I would advise having at least 0,000. on hand before you start your own build, just in case. The amount is variant on the size of your house, of course, and we always build big, so do the math and come up with how much you will actually need to get yourself all the way to Lock up, and have that money available before you start.

How Long Will It Take To Build A House? Typically, it can take from 4-5 months if a Big Builder is Building a relatively Small Home, and up to 2 years (I know - that seems craaazy, but it can be true, so be prepared if you're building a mansion! ha,ha!) for a very large Custom Home.

In general, if you're Building Your Own House, add a couple of extra months from any estimate for ease in your life, otherwise, your expected time-frame will be too tight and it won't be pretty!

A Larger Home, especially a Custom Home, will usually take between 6 to 12 months. Sometimes you will run into permitting delays, you can't get any Trades (if you live in an area with extreme growth or NO growth...!). Our house took Seven full months for the actual Build, but then you need to add another 6 weeks for the Permits to come through at the beginning. Also, we bought the Land a good 2 years before we actually started to build on it (when you build it yourself, you usually have to pay for the Land in Full before you can start the Dig...). I took a fair chunk of time to design the right house for this Lot, then had it professionally drawn.

We were in no hurry, because we wanted to be sure our other house was Sold before we 'Broke Ground', so we would never have to worry about carrying two mortgages (yikes!). Our House Sale went through in February and we broke ground on March 4th. Good timing, no?? We went ahead and got the Permits ready when the other house was Conditionally Sold.

Keep in mind that if you're hiring a Builder (Buying a Home through a Big Builder), and it's one of their 'stock houses' (meaning that the've built many, many houses in the same identical style...), that the Building Time will be much shorter than if you built on your own. Once you've built a house, it's much easier to build the same thing (or even a slight variation of that same home) again, because now you know the 'trouble spots', and changes that could be made to simplify the project.

When we are ready to Build again, I think we'll sell this house first, buy a smaller place that's 'an easy re-sale' in Town, buy a new Lot, then start another Build. It's important to look at every side before you even begin to get started, so you don't create chaos in your life. The further ahead you can plan, the better off you'll be.

In case you're wondering, 'an easy re-sale' is a house that is gorgeous but not too big and not too expensive. Big and Expensive happens to be my favorite kind of house, but not for a quick sale... and it needs to be in a really good location, preferably close to Schools and Shopping so it will appeal to young families. Also, I always choose a house with 3 Bedrooms on the same floor (Main Floor of a Bungalow or 2nd Storey of a 2 Storey home), because that's the easiest house to sell to a young mother. And by 'young', I mean any mother with kids at home that she still needs to wake up in the morning! ha,ha!

And, if you're really intuitive,this is already a plan I want to put into action, so I just have to convince Dwight that it's time to put this house on the market, since it can easily take a year to sell a really big house...sometimes they just fly off the market, but I want to be prepared! Let me know if you're interested in our gorgeous home! We'll miss it terribly, but I can always build another, right??

Hire a Builder: If the thought of having a few hundred Grand just sitting in a bank somewhere makes you feel faint, you should definitely consider Hiring a Builder. Quite often they will carry you through to the end of the Build with ,000. down. Some really big builders will let you get in with waaaay less -- sometimes as little as 0. down. Good to really check around to see what you can get that's in your price range.

Always keep in mind that the more Custom your house is, the more you will have to pay up-front and again at the end. Makes sense, but sometimes that's forgotten.

Hire a Project Manager: I don't know how you would Build a house on your own if you were both working in a Nine-to-Five job -- I'm thinking it would be next to impossible. I don't know how many times Dwight had to leave what he was working on to come out to the house to deal with one problem or another. And if he wasn't available, or it was one of my areas, I would come out. Since Dwight is a General Contractor (as well as a Heating & Air Conditioning Specialist), he was able to correct any problems to prevent delays rather than having to bring in all sorts of other people.

Hiring a Project Manager for your Build is less expensive in the long run (as opposed to a regular Builder), but you will have to have your money in order first, as you would if you were building all by yourself. You can always start out on your own, and bring in someone when and if you need them, too. Find a General Contractor before you get started who would agree to those terms so you don't find yourself stuck at a crucial stage (and, yes, they're all crucial stages!).

How to Find Land This is key, since it can often be difficult to find land in the city that does not belong exclusively to a Developer or Builder, which means that if you buy their land, you have to hire their Builders to build your house. What you want to look out for is a B.Y.O.B. Lot (this does not mean 'Bring Your Own Booze' to the work site!). This means Bring Your Own Builder. That's you! It also means that you could contract the building out to an Independent Builder, who might build for significantly less than a big name builder.

Check the Internet, your local real estate papers, bargain papers (there's usually one in every city -- the one in Calgary is the Bargain Finder ), newspapers, etc., to see if you can find a B.Y.O.B. (Bring Your Own Builder) Lot or a good Builder. It's always a good idea to check out local Builders, first, in case they can build what you want for basically the same a what it would cost you to build on your own. If the difference is less than ,000, it's probably better to buy through a Builder, whether Independent or a 'Big Name' company. You may be able to do part of the work, provided your skill level is adequate, which will knock the price back even further. Everything is food for thought when you're looking at an investment in your time and money of this magnitude. You're less likely to 'get in too deep' cash-wise, too.

You can always hire someone else this time around, then really watch to see how it works and try it yourself on the next house! You'll make a pile of money, either way, especially if you buy in an area with some positive growth potential! Remember, Real Estate rarely goes down in value, so it's a good investment. You'll have a nice place to live and when you sell it down the road, you'll make a bigger profit than most people make in the Stock Market. Plus, if the tax laws permit it, you won't have to pay taxes on the money you make from the spread (how much you paid for your house and how much it sells for). There's generally a time frame involved in this, so check with your accountant to get the low down for your area.

How to Design Your Home: The land you buy will determine what you can build, for the most part. If you're in the city, the neighbourhood will be pre-planned, and the Developer you bought the lot from will let you know what's allowed. Many new neighbourhoods are 'Front-car Garage' houses. Some will allow for a detached garage, or a garage attached at the back. Make sure you're comfortable with the restrictions that come with the lot before you buy it. If your lot is smaller (as most in-town lots are!), you'll probably have a basic shape that you can start with (say, a long rectangle, or a square box) - check out show homes for ideas (of course, you can not copy someone else's house, but you can gather ideas for features you like to see what you want to incorporate into your own house.

Once you've got the basic shape in mind, sit down with some graph paper and start playing around with what you want in the house. Three bedrooms on the main floor, four bathrooms (because you really love prunes!), large island in kitchen - you get the idea. The other thing that I highly recommend is the Internet (surprise, surprise!). There's a ton of information out there, and there is an incredible selection of house plans on the Net. They're waaay cheaper than having an Architect draw your own designs, and they will often accommodate them to suit your needs (small fee involved, but worth it if you really, really need a sauna off the Master!). The general cost of having your own House Plans drawn up is anywhere from ,500.00 and up, depending on the house and the Architect. Perhaps you'd even like to build a Walk-Out Bungalow like ours!

Extra Costs of the Land: This applies primarily to buying an acreage, since you'll need to add about ,000 into your budget to get the services in, but it's good to make sure that there are no hidden costs or amenities that you're required to pay for your lot. We really scored and found an acreage in an Estate Area that already has the services to the lot line -- WooHoo! That's a huge savings! (I'll put that money towards the development of the Garden Room!)

Every so often you may come across a Beautiful Piece of Land and the Developer will carry the price of the Land with a small Down-payment until you're finished the entire Build and your Mortgage Money has actually come through, then you pay the Developer for the Land at the end. This is very, very rare. More often than not, you may be able to hold the Lot with a Down-payment until you are ready to Build, but you will have to Pay for the Land in its' entirety before you can go and even get the Permits to Build. I know, I know ... it's a Big Money Game, but it can be done if you're really determined. All money-related info is much better to know in advance than to discover it later and lose your shirt... you want to make money on a build, not lose it, right?!

After Thought: Well, we're done the house, now, and Money was the most difficult part of the job. When you are building on your own, you actually seem to need a 3:1 ratio of Cash to Home. What that basically means is that if you want to borrow 0,000., your new home should be worth 0,000.

We were amazed at how little the Appraiser actually knew about the Building Process. We were also shocked at the tiny increments of cash that we got from the Bank. It was not done the way that you're generally told it will happen -- in three main sections -- Subfloor, Lock-Up and Completion.

We were given 10% here, and 5% there... it was a long and arduous process, and one we will try our best to avoid in any future Build. We'll set up a large Line of Credit based on the Equity of our House and go as far as we can before we attempt to get another Builder's Loan.

This is not to say that Builder's Loans are never good -- not by a long shot. They can be the difference between being able to Build the House or Not, so definitely pursue that avenue if you need to... you might get lucky and find a really great Appraiser who does know the building process.... they must be out there!

The other very difficult part of the Build was with the First Finishing Carpenter. We found him through a reliable source and followed through the regular way. Everything looked like it was going to go smoothly until he started fighting with me about how the Kitchen Island was to be built. He did his best to pit Dwight and I against one another -- I would give him the Drawing of how the Island was to be built and he would go to Dwight to say it had to be changed. (Little women don't know 'nothin' about buildin'... ugh! What a yuck!)

Everytime I drove up to the new house and saw his truck I would feel physically ill -- not a good sign!

I can't tell you how many fights this caused... Finally, I said to Dwight that we needed to band together against this guy and stop letting him waste time (hours and hours at .00/hour...) by pitting us against one another. Dwight agreed and we went back in with a united stand. Much better.

Even after that, this guy couldn't stay on track with the work that had to be done before we could move in, so after I found another carpenter (no matter how annoying or slow someone can be, always wait 'til you have a replacement before you make any serious changes...I think that might go for some marriages, too! ha,ha!), I came into the house, nothing had been done, and I fired him. He stayed to finish out the day, and Dwight said he had never seen this carpenter work so hard! Now, that's funny!

It's incredible, really, how something in a relatively short time period of your life can cause so much upset -- this part was very difficult to get through, but we got through it and now it makes for a good story!

Our new Carpenter, Trevor Campbell, came in and saved the day... he fixed all of the other guy's many mistakes and finished everything that needed to be done before we could move into the house. AND, he never fights with us! It's a miracle! Trevor is a breeze to work with, so we can get the work done quickly and easily -- perfect! We would recommend Trevor to anyone planning any type of Carpentry Work for their home.

As an aside, this is generally good advice for any building project -- or anything else that is a huge thing in your lives -- stick together as a unit to get the job done. Any item can be compromised on -- there is never any one item that should cause so much grief that the whole job comes to a halt. Better to resolve to like it (or not look at it!) than to waste time and money (and potentially your relationship...) fighting over any aspect of the job.

This is not to say that you shouldn't try to persuade your partner in the right direction if you know they are headed down the wrong path, but do it gently like you're steering a car around a tight bend -- go slowly and carefully so you don't run the whole thing off into the ditch!

The most important thing is to Keep the Job Going and Get the Job Done. Then Hire a Mover and Move on in -- and hopefully, Up!

Home Assessments - An Issue and Answer Guide

A home inspection is an evaluation of the visible and accessible systems and components of a home (plumbing, heating and cooling, electrical, structure, roof, etc.) and is intended to give the client (buyer, seller, or homeowner) a better understanding of the home's general condition. Most often it is a buyer who requests an inspection of the home he or she is serious about purchasing. A home inspection delivers data so that decisions about the purchase can be confirmed or questioned, and can uncover serious and/or expensive to repair defects that the seller/owner may not be aware of. It is not an appraisal of the property's value; nor does it address the cost of repairs. It does not guarantee that the home complies with local building codes or protect a client in the event an item inspected fails in the future. [Note: Warranties can be purchased to cover many items.] A home inspection should not be considered a "technically exhaustive" evaluation, but rather an evaluation of the property on the day it is inspected, taking into consideration normal wear and tear for the home's age and location. A home inspection can also include, for extra fees, Radon gas testing, water testing, energy audits, pest inspections, pool inspections, and several other specific items that may be indigenous to the region of the country where the inspection takes place. Home inspections are also used (less often) by a seller before listing the property to see if there are any hidden problems that they are unaware of, and also by homeowners simply wishing to care for their homes, prevent surprises, and keep the home investment value as high as possible.

The important results to pay attention to in a home inspection are:

1. Major defects, such as large differential cracks in the foundation; structure out of level or plumb; decks not installed or supported properly, etc. These are items that are expensive to fix, which we classify as items requiring more than 2% of the purchase price to repair.

2. Things that could lead to major defects - a roof flashing leak that could get bigger, damaged downspouts that could cause backup and water intrusion, or a support beam that was not tied in to the structure properly.

3. Safety hazards, such as an exposed electrical wiring, lack of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) in kitchens and bathrooms, lack of safety railing on decks more than 30 inches off the ground, etc.

Your inspector will advise you about what to do about these problems. He/she may recommend evaluation - and on serious issues most certainly will - by licensed or certified professionals who are specialists in the defect areas. For example, your inspector will recommend you call a licensed building engineer if they find sections of the home that are out of alignment, as this could indicate a serious structural deficiency.

Home Inspections are only done by a buyer after they sign a contract, right?

This is not true! As you will see when you read on, a home inspection can be used for interim inspections in new construction, as a maintenance tool by a current homeowner, a proactive technique by sellers to make their home more sellable, and by buyers wanting to determine the condition of the potential home.

Sellers, in particular, can benefit from getting a home inspection before listing the home. Here are just a few of the advantages for the seller:

· The seller knows the home! The home inspector will be able to get answers to his/her questions on the history of any problems they find.

· A home inspection will help the seller be more objective when it comes to setting a fair price on the home.

· The seller can take the report and make it into a marketing piece for the home.

· The seller will be alerted to any safety issues found in the home before they open it up for open house tours.

· The seller can make repairs leisurely instead being in a rush after the contract is signed.

Why should I get a home inspection?

Your new home has dozens of systems and over 10,000 parts - from heating and cooling to ventilation and appliances. When these systems and appliances work together, you experience comfort, energy savings, and durability. Weak links in the system, however, can produce assorted problems leading to a loss in value and shortened component life. Would you buy a used car without a qualified mechanic looking at it? Your home is far more complicated, and to have a thorough inspection that is documented in a report arms you with substantial information on which to make decisions.

Why can't I do the inspection myself?

Most homebuyers lack the knowledge, skill, and objectivity needed to inspect a home themselves. By using the services of a professional home inspector, they gain a better understanding of the condition of the property; especially whether any items do not "function as intended" or "adversely affect the habitability of the dwelling" or "warrant further investigation" by a specialist. Remember that the home inspector is a generalist and is broadly trained in every home system.

Why can't I ask a family member who is handy or who is a contractor to inspect my new home?

Although your nephew or aunt may be very skilled, he or she is not trained or experienced in professional home inspections and usually lacks the specialized test equipment and knowledge required for an inspection. Home inspection training and expertise represent a distinct, licensed profession that employs rigorous standards of practice. Most contractors and other trade professionals hire a professional home inspector to inspect their own homes when they themselves purchase a home!

What does a home inspection cost?

This is often the first question asked but the answer tells the least about the quality of the inspection. Fees are based according to size, age and various other aspects of the home. Inspection fees from a certified professional home inspector generally start under 0. An average price for a 2,000 square foot home nationally is about 0-5. What you should pay attention to is not the fee, but the qualifications of your inspector. Are they nationally certified (passed the NHIE exam)? Are they state certified if required?

How long does the inspection take?

This depends upon the size and condition of the home. You can usually figure 1.2 hours for every 1,000 square feet. For example, a 2,500 square foot house would take about 3 hours. If the company also produces the report at your home, that will take an additional 30-50 minutes.

Do all homes require a home inspection?

Yes and No. Although not required by law in most states, we feel that any buyer not getting a home inspection is doing themselves a great disservice. They may find themselves with costly and unpleasant surprises after moving into the home and suffer financial headaches that could easily have been avoided.

Should I be at the inspection?

It's a great idea for you be present during the inspection - whether you are buyer, seller, or homeowner. With you there, the inspector can show you any defects and explain their importance as well as point out maintenance features that will be helpful in the future. If you can't be there, it is not a problem since the report you receive will be very detailed. If you are not present, then you should be sure to ask your inspector to explain anything that is not clear in the report. Also read the inspection agreement carefully so you understand what is covered and what is not covered in the inspection. If there is a problem with the inspection or the report, you should raise the issues quickly by calling the inspector, usually within 24 hours. If you want the inspector to return after the inspection to show you things, this can be arranged and is a good idea, however, you will be paying for the inspector's time on a walkthrough since this was not included in the original service.

Should the seller attend the home inspection that has been ordered by the buyer?

The seller will be welcome at the inspection (it is still their home) although they should understand that the inspector is working for the buyer. The conversation that the inspector has with the buyer may be upsetting to the seller if the seller was unaware of the items being pointed out, or the seller may be overly emotional about any flaws. This is a reason why the seller might want to consider getting their own inspection before listing the home.

Can a house fail a home inspection?

No. A home inspection is an examination of the current condition of your prospective home. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value, or a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, cannot not pass or fail a house. The inspector will objectively describe the home's physical condition and indicate which items are in need of repair or replacement.

What is included in the inspection?

The following list is not exhaustive. Not all of these may be in the inspection you get, but the inspector will be following a standardized checklist for the home:
· Site drainage and grading
· Driveway
· Entry Steps, handrails
· Decks
· Masonry
· Landscape (as it relates to the home)
· Retaining walls
· Roofing, flashings, chimneys, and attic
· Eaves, soffits, and fascias
· Walls, doors, windows, patios, walkways
· Foundation, basement, and crawlspaces
· Garage, garage walls, floor, and door operation
· Kitchen appliances (dishwasher, range/oven/cooktop/hoods, microwave, disposal, trash compactor)
· Laundry appliances (washer and dryer)
· Ceilings, walls, floors
· Kitchen counters, floors, and cabinets
· Windows and window gaskets
· Interior doors and hardware
· Plumbing systems and fixtures
· Electrical system, panels, entrance conductors
· Electrical grounding, GFCI, outlets
· Smoke (fire) detectors
· Ventilation systems and Insulation
· Heating equipment and controls
· Ducts and distribution systems
· Fireplaces
· Air Conditioning and controls
· Heat Pumps and controls
· Safety items such as means of egress, TPRV valves, railings, etc.

Other items that are not a part of the standard inspection can be added for an additional fee:
· Radon Gas Test
· Water Quality Test
· Termite Inspection (usually performed by a separate company)
· Gas Line Leak Test (usually performed by the gas company)
· Sprinkler System Test
· Swimming Pool and Spa Inspection
· Mold Screening (sometimes performed by a separate company)
· Septic System Inspection (usually performed by a separate company)
· Alarm System (usually performed by a separate company)

We recommend getting a Radon Test if your prospective home falls into an area of the country with known Radon seepage, since Radon gas produces cancer second only to cigarette smoking and can be easily mitigated by installing a vent system. We also recommend a water test to make sure you do not have bacteria in the water supply. Water can also be tested for Radon.

What is not included in the inspection?

Most people assume that everything is inspected in depth on inspection day. This misunderstanding has caused many a homebuyer to be upset with their inspector. The inspections we do are not exhaustive and there is a good reason for this. If you hired someone with licenses for heating and cooling, electrical, plumbing, engineering, etc. to inspect your house, it would take about 14 hours and cost you about 00! It is much more practical to hire a professional inspector who has generalist knowledge of home systems, knows what to look for, and can recommend further inspection by a specialist if needed. Your inspector is also following very specific guidelines as he/she inspects your home. These are either national guidelines (ASHI - American Society of Home Inspectors, InterNACHI - International Association of Certified Home Inspectors) or state guidelines. These guidelines are carefully written to protect both your home and the inspector. Here are some examples: We are directed to not turn systems on if they were off at the time of the inspection (safety reasons); we are not allowed to move furniture (might harm something); not allowed to turn on water if it is off (possible flooding), and not allowed to break through a sealed attic hatch (possible damage). The downside of this practice is that by not operating a control, by not seeing under the furniture, and not getting into the attic or crawlspace, we will might miss identifying a problem. However, put into perspective, the chances of missing something serious because of this is quite low, and the guideline as it relates to safety and not harming anything in the home is a good one. There are other items that 95% of inspectors consider outside a normal inspection, and these include inspecting most things that are not bolted down (installed in the home) such as electronics, low voltage lighting, space heaters, portable air conditioners, or specialized systems such as water purifiers, alarm systems, etc.

What if there are things you can't inspect (like snow on the roof)?

It just so happens that some days the weather elements interfere with a full home inspection! There isn't much we can do about this either. If there is snow on the roof we will tell you we were unable to inspect it. Of course we will be looking at the eves and the attic, and any other areas where we can get an idea of condition, but we will write in the report that we could not inspect the roof. It is impractical for us to return another day once the snow melts, because we have full schedules. However, you can usually pay an inspector a small fee to return and inspect the one or two items they were unable to inspect when they were there the first time. This is just the way things go. If you ask the inspector for a re-inspection, they will usually inspect the items then at no extra charge (beyond the re-inspection fee).

Will the inspector walk on the roof?

The inspector will walk on the roof if it is safe, accessible, and strong enough so that there is no damage done to it by walking on it. Some roofs - such as slate and tile, should not be walked on. Sometimes because of poor weather conditions, extremely steep roofs, or very high roofs, the inspector will not be able to walk the roof. The inspector will try to get up to the edge though, and will also use binoculars where accessibility is a problem. They will also examine the roof from the upper windows if that is possible. There is a lot the inspector can determine from a visual examination from a ladder and from the ground, and they will be able to tell a lot more from inside the attic about the condition of the roof as well.

Should I have my house tested for Radon? What exactly is Radon?

In many areas of the country, the answer is a definite yes. You can ask your real estate agent about this or go on to the internet for a radon map of the country. Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless radioactive gas that's formed during the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock, and water. Radon exits the ground and can seep into your home through cracks and holes in the foundation. Radon gas can also contaminate well water.

Health officials have determined that radon gas is a serious carcinogen that can cause lung cancer, second only to cigarette smoking. The only way to find out if your house contains radon gas is to perform a radon measurement test, which your home inspector can do. Make sure the person conducting your test has been trained to The National Environmental Health Association (NEHA) or The National Radon Safety Board (NRSB) standards.

What about a newly constructed home? Does it need a home inspection?

Yes! In fact, we find far more problems, some quite serious, in newly constructed homes than in homes that have been lived in for years. This is not due to your builder's negligence - he/she has done the best job they could with subcontractors and planning - it's just that there are so many systems in a home, that it is close to impossible to inspect everything, and correct it before the Certificate of Occupancy is issued. Then, for some reason, the subcontractors no longer want to work on the home, and final jobs and details are missed. We recommend getting several professional home inspections near the completion stages of the home to discover everything that should be corrected. If the house is still new but sitting for a while before sale, it's even more important to get a home inspection. We have seen water lines not hooked up, plumbing lines not hooked up, sewer lines not hooked up, vents not hooked up, and a variety of other serious but easily correctable problems!

I am having a home built. The builder assures me he will inspect everything. Should I have an independent inspector make periodic inspections?

Absolutely yes! No matter how good your builder is, he/she WILL miss things. They are so concerned with the house, they get so close to their work, as do the subcontractors, that important items can, and will be, overlooked. Have a professional inspector make at least 4-6 interim inspections. They will be worth their weight in gold.

What is the Pre-Inspection Agreement?

Most service professionals have a service agreement, and home inspection is no different. In fact, there is enough confusion about what a home inspection should deliver that the agreement is even more important. Some homeowners who get a home inspection expect everything in the home to be perfect after the repairs. This is not the case! Imagine getting a call from a homeowner a year later who says the toilet is not flushing - remember that the inspection is a moment in time snapshot. In the inspection agreement the inspector is clear about what the inspection delivers and the things that are not covered, as well as what you should do if you are not pleased with the services. We really think that by reviewing this before-hand you will understand much more about the inspection and be happier with the results. A home inspection does not guard against future problems, nor does it guarantee that all problems will be found.

What kind of report will I get following the inspection?

There are as many versions of a "report" as there are inspection companies. Guidelines dictate that the inspector deliver a written report to the client. This can range from a handwritten checklist that has multiple press copies without pictures and 4 pages long to a computer generated professionally produced report with digital pictures that is 35 pages long and can be converted to Adobe PDF for storage and emailing. Be sure to check with your inspector about the report he or she uses. We recommend the computer generated report, since the checklist is more detailed and easier for the homeowner/buyer/seller to detail out the issues with photographs. In this modern age, we feel the reports must be web accessible and e-mailable to match the technologies most of us are using.

There are some great things you can use the report for in addition to the wealth of information it simply gives you on your new home:

· Use the report as a checklist and guide for the contractor to make repairs and improvements or get estimates and quotes from more than one contractor.

· Use the report as a budgeting tool using the inspector's recommendations and the remaining expected life of components to keep the property in top shape.

· If you are a seller, use the report to make repairs and improvements, raising the value of the home and impressing the buyers. Then have a re-inspection and use this second report as a marketing tool for prospective buyers.

· Use the report as a "punch list" on a re-inspection and as a baseline for ongoing maintenance.

Will the report be emailable or available as an Adobe PDF file?

Yes. As discussed in the last question, you will probably want your inspector to be using the latest reporting technology.

What if I think the inspector missed something?

Inspectors are human, and yes, they do miss items. However, they routinely use advanced tools and techniques to reduce the possibility that they will miss something. This includes very detailed checklists, reference manuals, computer based lists, and a methodical always-done-the-same-way of physically moving around your home. That is one of the reasons that an inspector can miss an item when they get interrupted. The inspector will have a set way of resuming the inspection if this happens. If, in the end, something IS missed, call the inspector and discuss it. It may warrant the inspector returning to view something that you found. Remember, the inspector is doing the very best job they know how to do, and probably did not miss the item because they were lax in their technique or did not care.

What if the inspector tells me I should have a professional engineer or a licensed plumber or other professional contractor in to look at something they found? Isn't this "passing the buck"?

You may be disappointed that further investigation is required, but, believe us, your inspector is doing exactly what they should be doing. The purpose of the inspection is to discover defects that affect your safety and the functioning of the home; the inspector is a generalist, not a specialist. Our code of ethics as well as national and state guidelines dictate that only contractors that are licensed in their specialty field should work on these systems and areas. When they tell you that a specialist is needed, there may be a bigger, more critical issue that you need to know about. If you move into the home without getting these areas checked by a qualified specialist, you could be in for some nasty and expensive surprises. The inspector does not want to cause you any more expense or worry either, so when they do recommend further evaluation they are being serious about protecting you and your investment.

Will the inspector provide a warranty on the inspected items?

Most inspectors do not give the homeowner a warranty on inspected items. Remember, a home inspection is a visual examination on a certain day, and the inspector cannot predict what issues could arise over time after the inspection. However, some inspectors are now including a warranty from the largest home warranty company in America - American Home Warranty Corporation, as well as others, on the inspected items for 60 or 90 days. This is a very good deal, and the agreement can be extended after the initial period for a relatively small amount of money.

Do most inspection companies offer money back guarantees?

Most inspection companies do not offer a satisfaction guarantee nor do they mention it in their advertising. It's always a good thing if you can get extra services for no additional cost from your inspection company, and of course a satisfaction guarantee is an indication of superior customer service. You usually have to call your inspection company right after the inspection and viewing of the report to tell them you are not satisfied. If you are not happy with the services, you should talk to your inspector first and let him/her correct the issue(s) you are unhappy with first, as the inspector is trying to make an honest living just like the rest of us, and is not failing you on purpose.

What if my report comes back with nothing really defective in the home? Should I ask for my money back?

No, don't ask for your money back - you just received great news! Now you can complete your home purchase with peace of mind about the condition of the property and all its equipment and systems. You will have valuable information about your new home from the inspector's report, and will want to keep that information for future reference. Most importantly, you can feel assured that you are making a well-informed purchase decision.

What if the inspection reveals serious defects?

If the inspection reveals serious defects in the home (we define a serious defect as something that will cost more than 2% of the purchase price to fix) then pat yourself on the back for getting an inspection. You just saved yourself a ton of money. Of course it is disappointing, even heart wrenching, to find out that your well researched house is now a problem house, but you now know the facts and can either negotiate with the seller, or move on. You may want the home so much that it will be worth it to negotiate the price and then perform the repairs. Imagine, though, if you had not gotten the inspection - you would have had some very unpleasant surprises.

Can I ask my home inspector to perform the repairs?

You can, but if your inspector is ethical, he/she will refuse, and correctly so; it is a conflict of interest for the person who inspected your home to also repair it! Inspectors are specifically barred from this practice by licensing authorities, and it's a good practice - an inspector must remain completely impartial when he or she inspects your home. This is one reason you should have a professional home inspector inspect your home and not a contractor - the contractor will want the repair work and you are likely to not have an objective inspection from this person even though they mean well and are technically competent.

Does the Seller have to make the repairs?

The inspection report results do not place an obligation on the seller to repair everything mentioned in the report. Once the home condition is known, the buyer and the seller should sit down and discuss what is in the report. The report will be clear about what is a repair and what is a discretionary improvement. This area should be clearly negotiated between the parties. It's important to know that the inspector must stay out of this discussion because it is outside of their scope of work.

After the home inspection and consulting with the seller on the repairs, can I re-employ the inspector to come re-inspect the home to make sure everything got fixed?

You certainly can, and it's a really good idea. For a small fee the inspector will return to determine if the repairs were completed, and if they were completed correctly.

What if I find problems after I move into my new home?

A home inspection is not a guarantee that problems won't develop after you move in. However, if you believe that a problem was visible at the time of the inspection and should have been mentioned in the report, your first step should be to call the inspector. He or she will be fine with this, and does want you to call if you think there is a problem. If the issue is not resolved with a phone call, they will come to your home to look at it. They will want you to be satisfied and will do everything they can to do this. One way to protect yourself between the inspection and the move-in is to conduct a final walkthrough on closing day and use both the inspection report AND a Walkthrough Checklist to make sure everything is as it should be.

Copyright 2010 by Lisa P. Turner

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